Kokoda Ultra Marathon 2017 - Part 1

In today's times we take for granted the lifestyle we have and the opportunities that are afforded to us. It is easy to forget that things could have been different if it had not been for the commitment and sacrifices of those who came before us. As an Australian I am reminded of our nation's history through annual days of remembrance, respect and celebration. On a personal level I was fortunate enough to have my Pa, Jim Rowland, to share with me war time stories and recount his own personal experiences from his time in the Australian armed forces during the Pacific Campaign of World War II. When Pa spoke about his war time experiences I would listen, even though I had heard his stories many times before. But now he has gone and I reminisce about his telling of his experiences, I can recall the tears in his eyes and the raw emotion in this voice. I cannot imagine a time when people so young, as my Pa was, were entrusted with so much responsibility and were asked to do so much with the very real possibility of making the ultimate sacrifice for others. It is a result of their sacrifices that I don't have to make my own. What I can do to pay homage to those Australian's is to remember them and their actions.

As a mark of respect and to honour the actions of others I'd considered traversing the Kokoda Track. I had no particular date or time in which I'd traverse the track, but it was there on my bucket list. By chance the opportunity arose to partake in the inaugural Kokoda Ultra Marathon on the 75th anniversary of the Kokoda Track Campaign, Papua New Guinea. Organised by Wayne Wetherall of Kokoda Spirit and Anthony Thompson of 360 Athlete, the Kokoda Ultra Marathon traverses the full 96km length of the Kokoda Track over 3 days and 2 nights, taking in places of historical significance along the way. It was a history lesson as much as it was a staged running event.

I haven't done much hiking where I had to camp over night. The last time I did an overnight hike was back in 2002 which resulted in a marriage proposal from Brian. That was at a time in our lives before either of us did anything remotely running related. So once I committed to participating in the Kokoda Ultra Marathon I had a pretty steep learning curve. I had no gear and no idea of what to expect. All I had were my trail skills and a dubious level of fitness leading up to my departure. 

The support leading up to the event was really good. Anthony Thompson was the main point of contact and he probably got a little annoyed with my novice questions, which he hid well, but his help was invaluable in setting me straight. Communication amongst other entrants on social media was also useful to get to know each other and provided lots of light-hearted entertainment before we convened in person. It was good to know that other people were thinking and asking the same things. 

Training for the event comprised my usual amount of "junk" kilometres, mostly without a back pack. It was about two weeks before I left that I finally got all my mandatory gear together, apart from my shoes which I got the week before departure. I managed one small run with a "full" pack, then did something to my back which put an end to my preparation. So the training I did with a full pack was best described as limited. Consequently I decided to "wing it" and risk what ever consequences may come. I'd put it down to being part of the adventure.

With all my gear sorted and vaccinations taken care of, all that was left to do was depart for Papua New Guinea. The flights I had booked coincided with most of the other entrants. So on Monday morning at sparrow fart I departed for Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea. This was my first time to the country and though I had heard many mixed stories, I along with the other members of the group, were well looked after during our entire stay.  Our base in Port Moresby was the Stanley Hotel which was luxurious. It provided a lovely relaxed environment for us to get to know each other and to be briefed on what lay ahead of us. 

Group photo at Owers Corner. Kokoda Ultra Marathon.

In addition to Wayne and Anthony who organised us, the remainder of the cohort comprised Tegyn Angel, Kellie Emmerson, Ashley Raymond Benett, Shane Antrobus, Rebekkah Middleton, Mark Middleton, Steve Bain, Grant Wallace and Chris Ord. It was a small intimate group of like minded people whom I had the pleasure of sharing this experience. I shouldn't forget to mention the Papuan porters who were instrumental in assisting with the logistics along the track. Without them I'd have been carrying a lot more gear in a much bigger pack.

Shortly after settling in to our accommodation, the event itinerary was torn up and thrown out. Due to factors beyond the control of the organisers our planned Tuesday flight from Port Moresby to Kokoda fell through and on the Monday evening we were informed that the track may have to be traversed in reverse, starting from Owers Corner heading to Kokoda Village. Ultimately it didn't really matter to us as we were to be be prepared to set out on this event on Tuesday morning either way. The only difference was that instead of heading out onto the trail from Kokoda Village on Wednesday, it might be that we would become acquainted with the track on Tuesday at Owers Corner instead. 

So on Tuesday morning it was confirmed, we would be heading to Owers Corner on a bus with the assurances that our altered flight from Kokoda would be sorted by the time we got there on Friday. It was a bit like preparing to do something on the count of three and then having it done on the count of two. I therefore had the bus trip to mentally prepare that in just a few short hours I'd actually be on the Kokoda Track. 

After a bumpy bus trip along PNG's rugged roads we finally made it to the head of the Kokoda Track. At Owers Corner we were greeted by friendly locals and gorgeous clear weather which bathed the dense Papuan jungle with tropical sunshine. Before heading off onto the track, we took time to understand the historical significance of the area that we were in. As was the case throughout the event we paid our respect to those who had been here before us. One of the ways we remembered what had happened on this track was through poetry which we all took turns to read. I find the verse of poetry to be quit powerful and the subject matter firmly installed the importance of this track and the sacrifices that were made so many years before. The Kokoda Track isn't just another walking track through nature. The Kokoda Track is steeped with countless accounts of battles, heroic acts and sacrifices during the Kokoda Track Campaign of World War II. Being on the Kokoda Track helps to bring all these accounts into perspective. 

Reading a poem about the Diggers. Kokoda Ultra Marathon

At about mid-morning it was time for us to head out and finally become acquainted with the Kokoda Track. The track was pretty easy to follow. It wasn't signposted but was marked occasionally with pink tape, though we were told not to rely on it. Though we all carried a map, which we now had to read in reverse, I rarely used it for navigation as I found the Track was the most prominent of any other intersecting tracks. The few times I used the map was to check that I was in the correct village and to point out places of historical significance, both of which were mandatory requirements of the event.

The downhill start from Owers Corner. Kokoda Ultra Marathon.

Though the Kokoda Track is "up hill" from Owers Corner to Kokoda Village, we started the first section of track on a very step descent to Goldie River. It was here that we said goodbye to dry shoes and socks for the remainder of the day, as we made our way across Goldie River's wide waters. The track followed the banks of the river until we started the climb to Dump 66 and Imita Ridge. The ascent up to Imita Ridge is very steep and intimidating. During the Kokoda Track Campaign there were 2,000 timber steps cut into the mountain side, though these have now been reclaimed by the jungle. 

Imita Ridge during WWII. Australian War Memorial.

The further our group progressed along the Kokoda Track the more we spread out and found our own space. Though most of us are competitive, we weren't racing each other, but just going at a comfortable individual pace as the terrain dictated. After Imita Ridge I found myself all alone on the trail. It was a surreal situation to be in. Having spent time in the morning and the previous day hearing about historical events on the Track, being in solitude helped to give it a new perspective. On the Track, alone, I wasn't distracted by conversation. I was in the moment imagining what it would have been like to face an enemy who didn't want to be seen until the last moment. Looking around I can understand how easy it would have been to blend into the jungle. 

From Imita Ridge we descended about 550m down to Ua-Ule Creek and its tributaries. In all there were 22 creek crossings in this section, or so I've been told as I'd lost count. So our semi-dry shoes became completely sodden and muddy. Lucky for us we were on the track during the dry season and there hadn't been much rain so the track was relatively "dry". In the wet season it must be a quagmire.

By the last creek crossing my shoes were looking like they had done 1000kms, not the 10kms that they had really done. From Ua-Ule Creek the track headed up to Iorabaiwa Ridge, 600m above. Iorabaiwa Ridge marked the furthest point of Japanese advance. It was also a good opportunity to take a moments rest and reflect upon its significance. 

Day 1 Map, which we had to read in reverse. 

Though I was alone on the Track, I wasn't completely alone. Interspersed randomly along the Track were the Papuan locals, some of whom were supporting our event, others just going about their daily business, including cooking meals on the side of the track. It didn't matter which local I passed, they always greeted me with a warm smile and a friendly wave. I'd always test their English by saying something to them. Some times it would start a conversation, other times a "Kokoda?" from me would be followed by a "Kokoda" from them then a pointing finger and smile. 

Our porters were amazing throughout the event.  They would always be at the check points setting up camp and cooking our meals.  Occasionally we would pass them along the trail as they would usually head off before us in the mornings. They were always there to help us in any way they could. Nothing was too much trouble for them.

Every day along the Kokoda Track I would randomly come across a hiking expedition. Judging from their accents they were mostly Australians, making the same pilgrimage along the Track as we were. Traversing the Track unsupported is frowned upon and I can understand why. The local people rely upon the expedition companies to provide them with employment and income. Some of the villages we passed through stocked cans of soft drink. Heeding some earlier advice, I took with me some money which I used to buy drinks from the locals. Even though not every village benefited from us staying in it, at least we could contribute to the economy in one small way. I was more than happy to exchange some heavy coins for a much appreciated can of soft drink.

Day 1 Profile.

The track descended off Iorabaiwa Ridge down to Ofi Creek before another large, but less steep, ascent up to Maguli Range and Naoro Village, our camp for the night. Day One ultimately saw us arrive in Naoro Village after covering 22km with approximately 1800m of ascent and 1400m of descent. It was a tough slog along the Track. I can only imagine just how tough it would have been carrying a full military pack or injured soldier along a sodden track. Near impossible would be my guess, but it was done nonetheless.

Naoro Village. Kokoda Ultra Marathon 

Arriving at Naoro Village was a great feeling. I emerged from the jungle to see a cleared grassy area with a scattering of huts made from local natural resources. The local children came out to greet me and show me the way to the camping area. Kokoda Spirit had arranged for their Papuan team to meet us at every camp site. Their guys helped with transporting equipment along the track, including setting up the tents and making us meals. While I waited for everyone else to turn up I struck up conversations with the locals and we discussed the Kokoda Track and what it's like to live on. It was interesting to learn just how different our lives are but yet we can still find many common connections, such as cleaning and washing. Once at the camp I was directed to a shower which I did not expect. The shower turned out to be just a tap connected to a pipe. It didn't look like much but it felt like luxury. After my "shower" the Papuans boiled water for me so I could have a hot drink. So after unpacking my gear into my tent I spent the afternoon sitting on the grassy slope at camp sipping my hot milo, soaking up the beauty around me while waiting for the other members of our team to arrive. Tegyn  was next in to camp and wasted no time in refuelling himself and sorting his gear out for the next day. While watching him it made me think that maybe I should be doing the same, instead of sitting around drinking milo, so I went and had another milo to help think about it some more.

Our morning and evening meals were carried in by the Papuan porters. I had already indulged myself by way of hot drinks. Next on the menu was dinner which comprised fried rice with a meat sauce, which tasted amazing. There was no skimping on quantities either, as there was always enough for seconds. It was a well cooked hearty meal to compliment the day's efforts on the track. 

At the end of Day One, once we had all arrived safely into camp, we convened over the campfire to discuss the days events and the significance of the section of Kokoda Track we had just covered and were about to cover on Day Two. I thought Kokoda Spirit had struck a good balance between allowing us to cover the Track at our own pace, while taking the time educating us on the significance of each section we covered and its history. With our minds processing the days events and our history lesson, we headed to our tents for some much needed sleep ahead of our longest day on the Kokoda Track.


The second and final part of the journey will be posted in a few days under Kokoda Ultra Marathon 2017 - Part 2.

Kokoda Ultra Marathon 2017 - Part 2

Continuation from Kokoda Ultra Marathon Part 1.

Day Two, Wednesday, was our longest day on the Track, which covered 42kms. Based on peoples efforts the previous day, it was important that we got an early start in order to make the most of daylight. So, in the early hours of the morning, we were awake, packed and ready to go before first light. With our head torches on we all headed off into the jungle together. As we'd had more time to get to know each other we stayed closer for longer and chatted a little more. 

Day Two Course Map. 

The track from Naoro Village descends down to Naoro Swamps and Brown River. The swamps comprise tall dense grass and in sections sodden ground. Through this part of the track I was with Kellie, Tegyn and Ash. We stuck together and stayed on the most trodden path. Cutting through the swamp and Kokoda Track is Brown River, which was another formidable waterway. With a bit of assistance we all crossed without incident. 

Day Two start line. Kokoda Ultra Marathon.

Emerging from Naoro Swamp we were confronted with "The Wall". It is a very steep section of trail that goes straight up the mountain side. The first impression was that the only thing holding this "wall" together was tree roots. It was not an exceptionally big climb, but it was steep and slow going.

Tree roots holding "The Wall" together.

On the other side of The Wall, down in the next valley, is Menari Village. Though we were not staying in this village, the locals still came out to say hello and view the spectacle. I was told that they normally see hikers lugging large packs, so us with our active gear apparel and small packs must have been a novelty. The locals took advantage of the passing trade and offered us soft drinks for sale. They didn't have to ask twice and currency was produced with haste. While we were there we took some time to watch the local kids play footy. Ash clearly had too much energy and decided to join one of the teams on the field.

After our break we headed out onto the track again. The rugged terrain eventually played its part in spreading us out. Similarly to Day 1, I was once again by myself on the Kokoda Track. Being alone on the track for a second day, I was becoming better at spotting historical land marks. At the end of the first day we discussed each others experiences and compared what each one of us saw. Now on Day Two I was able to identify abandoned tracks, depressions in the ground, benched areas on the hill sides, all of which became clearer now I had some practice. Nature can be so wonderful the way it reclaims disturbed ground, but it can leave some clues behind. 

The ascents and descents on Day Two were massive. There were numerous ascents where I looked at my watch thinking that an hour had gone by, only to realise that in reality it was just 15 minutes. I was surprised at how slow going some of these sections were and can see why so many people take many more days than us to traverse the Kokoda Track. 

Above Menari Village at the top of a 700m ascent is Brigade Hill. Apart from my deep breathing, it was a peaceful tranquil place, but during the Kokoda Campaign this is where a fierce battle took place which resulted in many causalities from both sides. On the other side of Brigade Hill is Efogi 1 Village. Again, as was the case in Menari Village, the locals came out to greet me at Efogi Village. The children didn't offer any soft drinks but made up for it with their enthusiasm.

Day Two Profile.

The high point of Day 2 was Mount Bellamy at 2190m, which is also the highest point along the Kokoda Track. It was noticeably cooler at this altitude. A little further along the trail was Templetons No. 1 Campsite ,which marked the end of Day 2 and our campsite for the night. Even though I'd covered 42kms with 2700m of ascent and 1780m of descent, I still made it with plenty of daylight left. Similarly to the end of Day One it was a matter of finding a place to have a quick wash before unpacking my gear in the tent and indulging in some milo while waiting for the rest of our group to turn up. 

We all found Day Two to be tough with some of the entrants arriving at camp a little after dark. Amongst the tail group was Anthony. Every day he stayed at the back to act as sweep. As he did every day, Anthony would put his own needs aside to check first on the rest of us and ask how our day had been and discuss the day ahead. Afterwards he'd go about his own business before returning to organise us again. He was instrumental in ensuring that the whole event operated smoothly, which he did superbly.

We were all pretty exhausted after our Day Two efforts on the track, compounded by our early morning start. The warm evening meal, however, did the job of restoring energy reserves in the cooling evening temperature before we retired to our tents and some much sought after sleep.

As discussed that previous night, the start to Day Three would be different again. To make things interesting, it was decided that we'd have two separate starts in the morning, with the slower people heading off in wave 1, followed an hour later by wave 2. The mornings entertainment therefore comprised of watching wave 1 departing camp. After I'd sorted myself out and finished packing, it was time for wave 2 to depart. Paper, scissors, rock decided the order of starts. Kellie went first, followed by me, then Ash, then Tegyn. It was a fun way to spend our last day on the Kokoda Track. 

Day Three Course Map.

Day Three, Thursday, was a "downhill" day and it didn't disappoint on tiring legs. I was starting the feel the affects of a weighted pack from the previous days as I'm not used to carrying such a heavy load (all part of the adventure). I had quite a bit of chafing down my back which was annoying me but it wasn't too bad and I learnt to manage it throughout the run. 

Day Three Profile.

The first couple of kilometres on Day Three had lots of relics from the Kokoda Track Campaign. It didn't take much effort to identify the relics along the side of the trail, though all were showing signs of decay.

Day Three, Wave 1 start. Kokoda Ultra Marathon.

We all seemed to have separated quite quickly today. Ash took the lead, determined to catch as many of the wave 1 group  as possible, Tegyn caught up then pulled away from me quite quickly. I caught and passed Kellie, so we were mostly by ourselves again today. 

Eora Creek suspension bridge. Kokoda Ultra Marathon.

In one of the valleys was an elaborate bridge across Eora Creek, which would be best described as dubious yet beautifully made by the locals. Not long after Eora Creek I caught Grant and Shane (wave 1) just before the village of Alola, where I was able to purchase a can of coke. A little further along the track is Isurava Memorial and its village. Just before Isurava I caught Ash on a down hill section he was running very carefully balancing his can of coke as he didn't want to spill a drop of the precious liquid.

Tegyn, Steve and I passed each other on the short out and back to Isurava Memorial. This is a mandatory stop and now I see why, as it is a beautiful memorial with stunning views that mark the scene of a four day battle that has been described as the battle that saved Australia. When leaving the memorial I took directions from a local villager who pointed me up what turned out to be a short-cut track, so I returned to the trail a little ahead of Tegyn to his annoyance and fair enough as he was in front of me and running really well. In fairness I stopped and waited until he was out of sight before I continued along the track in pursuit. 

Isurava Memorial. Kokoda Ultra Marathon.

From Isurava Memorial and its neighbouring village, it is predominantly down hill through the villages of Deniki, Hoi, Kovello to Kokoda where I passed Mark and Rebecca who informed me that Tegyn was about 15mins ahead and that I should run faster and catch him. I caught Chris instead just before coming into Kokoda which was our final campsite and end of the Kokoda Track. In total, Day Three was 30.5kms with 1000m of ascent and 2560m of descent. At the finish line there was the feeling of accomplishment amongst our small group. We had all been on a journey together, and though we didn't stay together on the track, we all had very similar experiences. It was great to watch everyone come through and be so happy.

All us girls made the Female Podium. Kokoda Ultra Marathon.

At Kokoda Village Wayne had travelled up and had our drop bags waiting for us. We had packed these prior to leaving Port Moresby, so it was good to have some luxuries at the end. For me it was clean clothes and a sleeping mat. 

First Class ticket please, one way. Kokoda Ultra Marathon.

Early the next morning we packed our gear and boarded a truck for the trip to the Kokoda airstrip. Much to the annoyance of the Papuan support team, on several occasions they had to clear a path through trees that had been felled by nuisance locals. Eventually we made it to the airstrip and with relief our plane was waiting for us. 

Kokoda Village

Back in the hotel at Port Moresby I took a long hot shower. It was good to wash the grime away. It did some to the point where I could no longer smell myself, which suggested that I smelled the worst. 

Presentation. Kokoda Ultra Marathon.

Our last night in Port Moresby was spent reflecting upon the event and presenting each of us a finishers medal. I feel very privileged to have shard this experience with such a great group of people. The format for this event is such that someone with moderate trail fitness is capable of covering the Kokoda Track in the three days given. The support from Kokoda Spirit was exceptional, from signing up, until our return departure from Port Moresby. Kokoda Spirit are clearly an experienced company who provide a high level of support and logistics along the Kokoda Track. I was hesitant about doing a staged event such as this, but my fears have been alleviated and I'm now looking to do another stage race in the not too distant future. 

Bomana War Cemetery. Australian War Memorial.

Gear (amongst other mandatory gear I carried)

La Sportiva Akasha shoes. They were perfect for this sort of terrain.
La Sportiva Snap Short

La Sportiva Thongs
Ultimate Direction Fastpack 15. It was a Mary Poppins bag, containing more than the name suggests.
Ultimate Direction Body Bottle
Ultimate Direction Ultra Light Hat

Kokoda Ultra Marathon 2017.

  

Hounslow Classic Ultra 2016

For me the lead up to this year's Hounslow Classic Ultra (68km, +/-4500m) had been some what relaxed. After my efforts at the BUFF Epic Trail and lingering leg issue I wasn't sure if I should register for the Hounslow Classic. Consequently I bided my time and left it quite late to enter the ultra distance race.

Running off Lockleys Pylon. Aurora Images.

The weeks between the BUFF Epic Trail and Hounslow Classic I continued to run as I usually do, racking up my usual mileage on the trails. There was no intensity in these runs and I enjoyed a lot of them with my people friends and my fury friends. The issue I had with the leg from my European trip remained but I was able to avoid aggravating it during this time. Better still, was that I hadn't committed to run yet and I didn't feel depressed about my casual lead-in to the race. I still managed however to get onto the Hounslow course regularly on weekends and familiarise myself with the steep descents (more like drops) and ascents (more like climbs).

The descent off Du Faur Head (Lockleys Pylon side) down to Blue Gum Forest. Training Run.

My commitment to finally register for the ultra came from a number of decisions. The year was still far from over, though Christmas decorations have already started appearing in the shops. I didn't want to end the year without doing one more event. So far in 2016 I hadn't done an ANZ Skyrace. Brian wanted to help out Mountain Sport by sweeping the shorter 21km course, so we were likely to be up at the event anyway. I had no other race lined up for the foreseeable future, so could risk aggravating my leg before having a proper rest period afterwards. So after weighing it all up I committed to the challenge of competing in Australia's toughest ultramarathon, as appointed by Ultra168.com.

The tree bridge crossing Govetts Creek at Blue Gum Forest. Training run.

Although the preceding week to the race was a short week due to the Monday being a public holiday, I made it seem even shorter by heading up to Katoomba after work on Thursday night. It's always an awesome feeling to sleep in Katoomba knowing that you are already at your destination and that the travelling is already done. I found it so relaxing that I risked sleeping the whole of Friday away. Once I finally managed to motivate myself, I travelled up to Allview Escape, Blackheath, which was this years event race hub. The uninterrupted views from this location gave runners and spectators spectacular view of the Grose Valley. The lawn at Allview Escape extends to the top of the escarpment from which there are direct lines of sight to many of the course's prominent features, such as Evans Lookout, Junction Rock, Pulpit Rock, Lockleys Pylon and the Pinnacles, the course's halfway/turnaround point. Each of these locations were tantalisingly close (within 8kms as the crow flies) but would take many hours of concentration and hard work to reach.

The Hounslow Classic Ultra is an out and back course, which is far from boring. The course sees runners drop in and out of the Grose Valley four times. Each descent and subsequent ascent is unique in its own way and just as much concentration is required going down as it is going up, though going up definitely takes longer to do. The technicality of the terrain is a good leveller bringing those who can run fast back to those that can run the technical trails, with the biggest advantage given to energetic hikers. 

Andrew Layson (Berowra Bushrunner President) and me before the ultra start.

Come race morning we were greeted with perfect weather that revealed the gorgeous views that would accompany us runners throughout most of the day. Even though I've seen the view hundreds of times before, I'm still mesmerised by it. Unfortunately I wasn't at the start line to gaze, but to race, and when we all finally headed off the pace was sensibly dictated by eventual race winner Loughlinn Kennedy. After a short section of fire trail to allow us to self seed, we dropped down onto the single clifftop trail and followed it towards Govetts Leap, last years race hub. I found myself running close to the ever cheerful Lou Clifton. Race previews had ousted local girl Lou as a potential podium finisher and rightly so as she is having a stellar year on the ANZ Skyrunning circuit with strong results. Even though this was a race and technically we were competing, we still managed to keep a pace where we could run together and chat like we would during a training run. It was really quite enjoyable to be able to do this on the trails with a friend.

The start line at Allview Escape, Blackheath, is spectacular.



The well formed clifftop trail continued past Govetts Leap along to Evans Lookout carpark, then around to Neats Glen before starting the first big descent down into the Grand Canyon. Arguably one of the most picturesque walking tracks in the Blue Mountains, the Grand Canyon track slowly deteriorates the further you descend. There are sections that are well landscaped, then there are sections that have succumbed to land slips. All this is easily traversed but care needs to be exercised. As the trail started to become more technical I stuck to a pace that was comfortable for me. My conversation with Lou ended near the landslide section where I passed her then started to edge ahead. Once at the bottom of the Grand Canyon I followed the level single trail and the river down to Junction Rock, which marked the start of the days first big ascent back up to Govetts Leap via Rodriguez Pass. Joseph Dorph caught me at this point and took off out off sight. I'd spend the rest of the day trying to catch him. This ascent up to Govetts Leap gets steeper and steeper, starting with a gentle grade which turns into more frequent series of steps which in themselves get steeper and steeper, before arriving at the base of a vertical cliff and a trail which cuts across its face. On the ascent I caught and passed Jason Martin, but not before having a brief chat. Ahead I could now see Joseph, whom I knew I could catch and over took him at the falls. Joseph stayed right behind me all the way to the top. None of this happened quickly as the motion of running changed to a jog, then hands on knees power walk until finally reaching the top. I had a long day ahead and there was no use going out too hard at this early stage of the race.



Lou Clifton and I having a chat while running through the Grand Canyon track.

After completing the first big ascent and reaching Govetts Leap, the route retraces the clifftop track back to the race hub at Allview Escape where I met up with Brian to refuel. This first loop (21km) took me 2hrs 36mins to complete and was just a warm-up for what was to come.

Coming back to the race hub. Junction Rock is in the valley below. Ben Duffus.

I left the check point before Joseph and it wasn't long before he caught up again and we ran together for a while until Pulpit Rock where he left me for good. This next section of the course around to Perrys Lookdown is really the only runnable section of the trail as it follows a reasonably well graded dirt road. It's one of the few opportunities for the faster runners to stretch their legs and not be hindered by rocks, tree roots, branches, tourists, shrubs, etc. I was expecting to be passed by runners along this section, especially since I have a habit of slacking off when running by myself, but even with my relatively slow pace I managed to keep my position in the field.


The "runnable" part of the course between Allview Escape and Perrys Lookdown. Scott Hawker.

Most of my training runs on the course occurred between Perrys Lookdown and Lockleys Pylon. The two points are only 5kms apart, however between them is a 600m descent down to Blue Gum Forest then another 600m ascent back up the other side. This section of trail provides one of the best training grounds in the Blue Mountains for vert vs distance. On the climb up to Lockleys Pylon I could feel the effects of the Spring sun on my body. The day was reasonably warm and much of the trail up to Lockleys Pylon is exposed. The usual energy I have at this point on my training runs was starting to diminish and my lackadaisical training routine for this race was starting to show. Shortly after reaching Lockleys Pylon I was passed by Loughlinn Kennedy and Danny Garrett travelling in the opposite direction. They looked like they were running on top of each other and neither were relenting. Both these guys were leading the race and were on their return journey towards the finish line. Joseph was the next person I saw, in third place, on the out and back which meant he must have over taken a couple of runners. The 3km run out to the Pinnacles, turnaround point, was becoming a chore. I could feel my feet starting to become heavy and although the trail was reasonably flat, the exposed rocks were hampering my stride. On a few occasions I felt that my issues from the BUFF Epic Trail were preparing to make a come back, but I felt that I couldn't go much slower else Lou would surely have caught back up to me.

The volunteers at the Pinnacles checkpoint were very helpful.

The return journey from the Pinnacles back to Perry's Lookdown took 9mins longer than the out journey. At the time it felt like a lot longer as I was sure that I slowing down. As I'd passed Lou between the Pinnacles and Lockley Pylon on the return journey I knew where I sat in the field relative to everyone else. I didn't want to reduce the intensity, but at the same time I could still feel the weather sapping my energy. My nutrition plan was out the door by the time I was back at Perrys as I was finding it difficult to force food down. By the time the sun finally started to abate on the return journey to Allview Escape, the effects on my nutrition had done its damage. Solid food was no longer an option and I was left to my trusted cordial.

Sean Greenhill (RD) checking that I was alright before heading out on the last loop.

The final descent back down from Govetts Leap to Junction Rock was slow going. The spring in my step had gone. From Junction Rock there was just one more substantial climb back up into Grand Canyon. There wasn't much running going on along this section. My movements were coarse and I felt like I was in a hike-a-thon. At the back of my mind I wanted to finish the course in daylight and I used this as my motivation to keep going.


The hike-a-thon back up the Grand Canyon track. Ben Duffus.

It was a huge relief to emerge from the darkening Grand Canyon track and see that there was enough daylight to get back to Allview Escape. The weather had changed while I was in the canyon and the sun had been replaced with a cold heavy air as a cold weather front had come through. Along the clifftop track I was forced to start running in order to keep myself warm, such was the sudden drop in temperature. To my disappointment the cold air had brought a light fog that now concealed the view. At least I got to enjoy it earlier in the day when I was fresher and could afford lifting my eyes up from the trail. Now in my exhausted state my eyes were firmly focused on the trail ahead.

Yes Sean, those mountains look much bigger from my perspective. Maggie Jones.

After 10hrs 24mins I finally made it back to Allview Escape for the fourth and final time that day, 1st female and 4th overall. The final loop had taken me 44mins longer than the first time. I felt spent. I apologise to Sean Greenhill, Race Director, for not being more accommodating in his finish line interview, but to be honest all I wanted to do was have a spew, and I didn't think that it would be appropriate to do it in front of everyone. On the bright side, it is amazing how good you can feel after purging the system.

Hounslow Classic Ultra Podium. L-R Lou Clifton 2nd, me 1st, Lucy Bartholomew 3rd, Danny Garrett 2nd, Loughlinn Kennedy 1st, Joseph Dorph 3rd. La Sportiva Australia.

For anyone looking at a stand out Skyrunning event that is different to anything on the Australian trail running scene then this is my pick. It has big climbs with technical trails that reward runners with more technical running ability over those with flat out speed.

I found it easier to carry the food rather than consume it. Aurora Images.

Gear
La Sportiva Akasha shoes.
La Sportiva T-shirt
La Sportiva Snap Short
La Sportiva Trail Gloves
La Sportiva H9eadband
Ultimate Direction Adventure Vesta 3.0.

Ultimate Direction Body Bottle.
Ultimate Direction cap

BUFF Epic Trail Aiguestortes 2016

The third and final race of my 2016 European trip was the BUFF Epic Trail Aiguestortes, Spain, which also doubled as the biennial Skyrunning World Championships. This three day event had vertical kilometer (VK), 26km, marathon and ultra races on offer. I'm a big fan of the longer "value for money" type of events so chose the ultra with its 105km, +/-7950m. What I didn't anticipate was how much "value" I was to get on the mountainous ultra course.

BUFF Epic Trail course profile.

Two weeks prior to the BUFF Epic Trail I raced in the High Trail Vanoise VK and Petit Parcours races in the French Alps. Their purpose was to help me acclimatise to the altitude and big European mountains. Following the High Trail Vanoise event I travelled with Mum, Dad and Brian down to Spain to check out the BUFF Epic Trail ultra course prior to race day. Firstly we spent a few nights in Taull (Vall de Boi ) to check out the first big ascent and last big descent of the ultra course. We then moved to Espot for a few more nights where we checked out the middle part of the ultra course. Although these recce runs were short in distance, they generally involved a VK up out of the valley which was a lengthy exercise, but each effort was rewarded with gorgeous Pyrenees view and the occasional bird of prey sightings. I often wondered if they were circling Brian on his way up the mountain side to meet me. All up we managed to check out about half the ultra course, but as it turned out, these sections were the easiest parts of the course.

Prior to the "business end" of my trip we all drove to the Spanish Costa Brava coast where we spent a few nights in the white washed coastal town of Cadaques, Spain. It was a refreshing change from the mountainous regions we had been in for the last two weeks. The change in location also minimised the temptation to overexert myself before the big race. Essentially I had nothing else to do but sit back and soak up the suns rays while enjoying the Mediterranean views.

Tapering may as well be enjoyable. Cadaques, Spain.

When we returned for the BUFF Epic Trail, the race hub village of Barruera in the Vall de Boi valley, had transformed itself into a trail running mecca. A number of temporary structures had been erected for the event. This seemed to attract a myriad of trail runners, like moths to a bright shining light. Everyone seemed to be busy doing something somewhere.  It was a big change from the quiet little village I had visited just a couple of days earlier.


The VK kicked off the long weekend of Skyrunning races. While spectating the start I managed to catch up with a few of the Australian and New Zealand Skyrunning team members. It was good to meet some new faces and catch up with others. During our discussions they relayed to me that the ultra course had been modified. As confirmed during the prerace briefing, a 10km section of the course was to be "neutralised". From what I could gather, permits were not granted for this section of the course. The solution was for us to traverse this section of trail as "day hikers" and a percentage of our overall time would be deducted. All very confusing, but the general consensus was that the race would go ahead regardless.


The ultra trail, including the neutralised section, is 105kms. The lowest part of the course is the race start/finish town of Barruera at 1100m elevation. From here it is all up with four major ascents and descents accumulating in +/-7950m of elevation change. The highest part of the course is just under 3000m elevation, which I was hoping would not disadvantage me after my earlier acclimatisation in France. I had done as much as I could to be ready for this race and all that was left to do was the race itself.

Come race morning I once again lined up with the well styled European trail runners in the predawn light. There was just enough light to see without a head torch, but by the time we all started running I found myself jostling for position next to someone with a light. The pace was quite fast to start with. Much faster than I was prepared to run. After the first few kilometres the trail switched from following the relatively flat trail up the Vall de Boi valley, to ascending up the steep alpine slopes on the route's first big ascent (+1000m). The earlier enthusiasm of the other runners around me was quickly reeled in and the pace dropped dramatically to a mix of power walking and a slow jog where the grade allowed. This pace was much more sustainable and more to my liking.

Upon reaching the top I followed the other runners over the pass and started the  long runnable descent down to the village of Senet and the first crewed checkpoint beyond at Refugi Conangles (22.9kms). I'd done this leg of the course with Brian so knew what to expect and how to approach it. I was only a shorty way down the descent before a sharp pain quickly developed from my left glute down my left hamstring. Since arriving in Europe I'd had what felt like a deep bruise in my left glute. I suspect it was from sitting for too long on the airplane seats. It hadn't been restricting me on my previous runs, but just incase I'd been taking it easy where possible and had a few massages, but seemingly it wasn't enough. Now that the dull sensation had emerged as a noticeable pain I reigned in my pace, stepped off the trail and started walking. Almost as suddenly as the pain had appeared it started to fade. I tried lifting the pace back up to a run again, but the pain re-emerged. I spent the next hour finding that point where discomfort became pain as most of the field that was behind now started to trickle past me.



The less technical section of descent down to Senet.

In previous ultras I'd occasionally come across some pretty talented male runners during races. The fact that I'd caught them was an indicator that they were not having a good day. The guys that stand out most in my mind were those that managed to compose themselves and soldier on to the end, sometimes repassing me before the finish line. It's these guys whom I admire, who don't look for excuses to pull out, regardless of the expectations placed upon them by others. I've often wondered if under the same circumstances would I retire during a race. I've never seriously considered DNF'ing (did not finish) during a race, but I was now. I felt that my time of reckoning had arrived.


The remaining kilometres to Refugi Conangles checkpoint were slow and uncomfortable. I was able to jog the flats and ascents with some discomfort, but it was the descents that were causing me the most grief. I arrived at the checkpoint where Mum, Dad and Brian and been waiting for me. The look of sympathy on their faces said it all and I didn't have to tell them that something was wrong. Brian asked if I was alright. "Yeah, I'm OK". No, not really, but what could he do? I explained as best I could how I felt. Brian asked if I wanted to pull out or continue on. He reinforced that he, along with Mum and Dad, would support me either way. I stood there thinking about my options and what I wanted to do. We'd worked and saved hard to afford the trip over to Europe. I had trained hard to get myself ready for this race. Although I've had a few DNS's, I had never DNF'd a race before. My race might have been done, but my run (jog) was far from over. I refilled my bottles and replenished my pockets with food before announcing that I'd continue on. I was in a bit of discomfort, probably too much for this early stage of the run, but I was prepared for a long day and a long night on the trail. 

Brian restocking my supplies before I departed Refugi Conangles.

It is almost guaranteed that during an ultra something will hurt, eventually. I often find in ultras that the brain can only focus on one source of pain at a time. The level of pain is relative to what else is hurting in the body at the same time. If something hurts more then that becomes the minds focal point. My logic for continuing on was that the discomfort I was feeling at the moment was restricting my running but wasn't preventing me from continuing on (jogging, hiking, walking). There was always the possibility that something else would start hurting more and that I might be able to lift the pace a little. This might sound a little strange, but I'm sure that ultra runners can relate to it one way or another.

Heading up into the clouds.

The section of trail beyond Refugi Conangles was all new to me. I hadn't made it this far in my recce runs. The trail ahead and what it holds would be my reward for continuing along the route. I was still well in front of the sweeper (if there was one that is) and I wasn't last, though I felt like I wasn't far off. The trail headed up the mountain behind the refugi, into the low lying clouds. The climb was massive (+900m), which was a predominant feature on this course as there were a few big climbs. There were few sections that could be considered "flat", though there were sections where the grade on the ascents slackened off and became runnable. Unfortunately for me the runnable sections proved to be of little advantage. At the top of this next climb I could spot the first of the perched lakes, for which this region (Aiguestortes and Sant Maurici Lake Nation Park) is renowned. There are over 200 lakes in this area and the course was about to run past many of them.

The alpine lakes were spectacular and there were so many of them.

The checkpoints on this course were reasonably well spaced. As my crew could only get to two of the checkpoints (Refugi Conangles, 22.9kms and Espot, 71.0kms)) I was dependant upon the provisions supplied by the race organisers. As time in the checkpoints was no longer a concern for me I found myself gazing at the array of food and beverages on offer. I'm not sure if it was the altitude or what, but I definitely had an increased appetite. I found myself filling my pockets with food, along with two handfuls, before departing the checkpoints. I never eat this much at checkpoints, but if my body wanted it then I was happy to oblige.

Part of the trail down to Espot.

Shortly after departing the Colomers checkpoint (47.9kms) I arrived at the start of the "neutralised section". A marshal was there to ensure that our race numbers were hidden before we continued on. The course markings disappeared along this section of the course and we were instead flowing a string of marshals who marked the way for us. Prior to arriving in the Pyrenees for my course recce runs I'd loaded the ultra route onto my GPS watch. The one million waypoints had been reduced to ten thousand in the process, which led to some confusing interpretations of the route during the recce runs, especially when there was no trail in sight to follow. I'd slowly got used to it so knew what to expect if I had to rely upon it. Now, running with a watch for the first time in a race for many years, I was glad to have the add reassurance that I was on the correct route, even though there was little chance of getting lost.

Walking into Espot with mum.

At the end of the "neutralised section" I was once again on familiar trail as it descended down to Espot. I'd done this long descent with Brian and knew how runnable it was, however I had left my running legs way back at the 5km mark. Meeting me at the bottom of the descent at the Espot checkpoint was Mum, Dad and Brian. Although it had been almost 9 hours since we had last seen each other it looked like they were relieved that I'd finally turned up. Brian let me know that I'd made up 43 positions since we last saw each other. I don't remember overtaking any where near that number of people, so most of them must have been DNF's. This checkpoint was by far the biggest to date, and was housed in one of the village hotels. Laid out along one wall of the hotels dining room was a smorgasbord of food. I was like a food obsessed dog, starting at one end of the room, eating my way to the other end. I have never been so hungry in my life, but like I said before, I needed to listen to my body.

Espot was an awesome checkpoint with delicious food and a change of socks.

It was 6:20pm by the time I left Espot for the biggest and longest climb of the day (+1300m). Last light for this part of the world was just after 10pm and I was keen to make use of all the natural light as I knew that my pace would drop substantially when using my head torch.

Almost at the top of the final "big" ascent.

By the time the sun set I was on new trail. I hadn't made it this far on my recce runs and it was disappointing to be missing out on what I'd heard were spectacular Pyrenees vistas. When it gets dark there are a lot less distractions for the mind and it is easy to focus on those parts of the body that are hurting. My leg was still causing me a discomfort, though dropping the pace had helped considerably. However, being out on the trails for this long meant that other parts of the body were hurting just as much, like my toes from all the rocks I'd kicked. I tried to block all of this out and just focus on my headlight illuminating the trail ahead.

View of the final descent from the last pass. This is Brian on one of our recce runs.

Summiting the final pass of the route I was once again back on a familiar trail. I'd done this section with Brian and even in my exhausted state of mind I was eagerly looking out for familiar landmarks to count down the last few kilometers. I emerged from the trail onto a road at a small aid station manned by volunteers and anxious crew, one of which was mine. I almost didn't recognise them. I initially ignored them until they awoke me from my daze. By this time I was a girl on a mission. I wasn't looking for a distraction, just the finish line so that I could say that I'd conquered this epic run. I slowly counted the villages off the lower I got down the mountain, Taull, Boi and finally Barruera, again with its long awaited finish line.


Arriving in Barruera was a huge sense of relief. I had initially set out with, what I thought, a realistic expectation. Early on in the race my goals had to be reassessed, taking into account my current circumstances. I then stripped away my earlier expectations and just focused on the single goal of finishing. So after almost 22hrs on the trail I finally made it across the finish line with the official time of 19:46:06, to the applause of maybe a dozen sleepy spectators/support crew. 


Looking back at what I'd done, I am glad that I had decided to continue on. I felt then, as I do now, that had I DNF'd then I would have regretted it. There would have been this nagging voice questioning, "what if?". Though it might have been a long uncomfortable and arduous task, I can confidently say that I have an answer to a question that I didn't have to ask myself. To end on a positive, I've now completed a full course recce of the BUFF Epic Trail.

I ran the last few hundred metres to put on a show for the assembled crowd.

Gear
La Sportiva Akasha shoes.
La Sportiva T-shirt
La Sportiva Snap Short
La Sportiva Trail Gloves
La Sportiva Headband
Ultimate Direction Adventure Vesta 3.0.
Ultimate Direction Body Bottle.
Ultimate Direction cap 

BUFF Epic Trail route (neutralised section "missing").